It was a moment of déjà vu at first bite. Just a few days prior I had been enjoying a similar cheese board and wine with my family in Burgundy, and here I was now, in my jetlagged stupor, at LQV’s newest venture, Terroirs by LQV.

Helmed by LQV director Hugues Rondouin, Terroirs by LQV recently opened in the Lyndhurst Terrace building in a beautiful space designed by LC Studio. The dining area is divided into two sections and an outdoor space, and the lime washed brick walls, terracotta and wood accents bring a softness to the homey wine bar.

Photo: Terroirs by LQV

But my déjà vu goes beyond the familiarity of the food, wine and decor. It’s about a feeling, one that Hugues wanted his guests to expect when he named the wine bar Terroirs. While he was aware it would be a challenge to explain the meaning behind the word, as there is no English equivalent, he knew it was the best way to encapsulate the French façon de vivre [way of living] and to celebrate the ingredients.

The word terroir finds itself at the intersection of culture and geography. At its core, it represents the local territory that distinguishes agricultural and artisanal products from its regional counterparts, with environmental factors such as soil, climate and topography playing a key role in determining the DNA of a product.

But it’s so much more than that. It’s about moments shared in conviviality, the honouring of heritage and tradition, the respect of the land and the savoir-faire and craftsmanship behind the food on your plate.

Photo: Terroirs by LQV

And so, starting at 3pm, guests can enjoy a nice glass of wine with quintessentially French bites. Having cultivated close relationships with the winegrowers for over a decade, Hugues brings an exhaustive list of wines spanning the regions of Champagne, Alsace, Burgundy, Côtes du Jura, Rhône Valley and many more at a wide range of prices. Sommelier Brandon Wong’s vast knowledge extends to the biodynamic, organic and natural wine options and you may just learn a thing or two. I am now adding the desriptor “chiseled” to my wine lexicon. 

And of course, good wine calls for an assortment of cheese and charcuterie along with some of the best sourdough you can find in Hong Kong, coming from a large loaf of bread—about one metre long—made daily by the LQV Bakery to be cut up and served with the boards.

Photo: Terroirs by LQV

As for the dishes, the sun-kissed tomato salad with a spoon of cervelle de canut—a fresh cheese mixed with herbs—is a light refreshing start before moving on to the infamous croque monsieur with truffle ham and 18-month aged comté. One dish that particularly stands out is the pan-seared black pudding with Noir de Bigorre Pork, which Hugues assures is “basically a superfood”, that is just heavenly paired with the prune and pastis jam, enough to turn any sceptic into a fan.

There is no pretension here, the atmosphere at Terroirs by LQV is laid back and done à la bonne franquette, meaning simply and with no fuss. So don’t fear cutting the cheese the wrong way or picking the charcuterie with your fingers, top up your friend’s glass—the wine bottle stays on the table—and make yourself at home because, well, you are.

Terroirs by LQV | 3rd floor, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2550 0345